Kiwis are New Zealand’s iconic native bird. The kiwi bird emblem was first seen on the badges of soldiers in the late 1880s and is now a commonly used (and welcome) nickname used to describe people from New Zealand. As an island country in the South Pacific Ocean, New Zealand has a largely maritime climate, although its elongated geography produces considerable regional variation from north to south. While New Zealand wine traces its history to the early 19th century, the modern wine industry in New Zealand began in the mid-20th century and expanded rapidly in the early 21st century, growing by 17% a year from 2000 to 2020. We will sample three wines from around New Zealand:
Kumeu River Village Chardonnay 2021 — Founded in 1944 in Auckland, Kumeu River was one of the early pioneers that helped establish its reputation as a world-class wine region. Still family owned and run, Kumeu River continues to pioneer new frontiers: founder winemaker Michael Brajkovich became New Zealand’s first member of the prestigious Institute of Masters of Wine, London. The winery has become the globally recognized benchmark for non-Burgundy-produced Chardonnay. Produced from hand-harvested grapes grown in Kumeu and Hawkes Bay, this wine was fermented 42% in old French oak barriques, and 58% in stainless steel tanks. The barrel fermentation provides some richness but very little oak influence. Combined with the tank fermentation, this allows the vibrant fruit to show through with lively lime and lemon aromas and a flinty, mineral edginess with hints of fig and white peach. A village-level wine with great complexity, the weighty mid-palate shows peachy ripeness along with crisp acid minerality that gives the wine a refreshing cleansing quality. 13% ABV. $28.99 (regularly, $30.99)/$9.50
Tohu Sauvignon Blanc 2022 — For centuries, the Maori people, who are indigenous to New Zealand, worked, lived on, and loved the rugged yet fertile lands of their ancestors. There was awareness that the earth was the giver of all life. It was accepted that the people who were born onto that land inherited the right to produce from it and to protect it for the benefit of all. Tohu Wines is the first indigenous-branded wine to be produced for the export market. Sourced entirely from vineyards located in Southern Marlborough’s Awatere Valley, this wine displays aromas of citrus zest and vibrant tropical fruit with notes of fresh spring herbs complemented with hints of orange blossom and lemongrass. The palate is layered with flavors of juicy ripe lemon and lime, lemongrass, sweet fresh pineapple and crunchy green apple. Outstanding fruit concentration and a zesty underlying minerality that leads to a pure, lively and focused dry finish. Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and a creamy, focused palate. Clean and bright. 13% ABV. $22.50/$7.50
Paddy Borthwick Pinot Noir 2016 — Proudly family owned, the Borthwick Vineyard is an established vineyard situated in Gladstone, the heart of the Wairarapa. In 1936, PJ Borthwick immigrated to New Zealand and purchased Te Whanga Station in the Wairarapa district. In 1985, great-great grandson Paddy Borthwick trained at the world-renowned Roseworthy College in Australia as a viticulturist and wine maker, embarking on a career spanning five countries and three continents before settling back into the Wairarapa. In 1996, Paddy and his father Robin began planning the 27-hectare Borthwick Vineyard and Winery. Traditional Burgundian techniques and minimal handling have produced a Pinot Noir with an intense bouquet of cherries, plums, cranberries and cedar. Flavors of earth and spice complement a rich silky palate with a purity of bright fruit and finely integrated tannin structure. This is a plush, dense, fairly reductive wine that kicks off with ripe red and black fruits, damp earth, drying leaves, charred meat, cola and stony mineral characters. The palate is full-bodied with concentrated fruits and distinctive sappy, earthy tannins that are typical to this region. Estate-grown, this is a rare wine (only 70 cases produced per year). Drink 2021–2029. 13.5%. $32.50 (regularly, $35)/$11
See you Friday!!