Encompassing more than a quarter of the state, the Columbia Valley AVA is by far Washington’s largest growing region at 11+ million acres. It is home to over 99% of all of Washington’s vinifera acreage. In contrast to most other growing regions, many of the vines in Washington are own-rooted, which is said to contribute to a greater level of varietal typicity. Almost all of Washington’s growing regions are sub-appellations of the Columbia Valley. We will sample:

Nine Hats Pinot Gris 2023 — Pinot Gris is Oregon’s signature white wine grape, but Washington Pinot Gris has quickly gotten into the game. In just a decade, Washington Pinot Gris has gone from obscurity to the state’s No. 3 white wine. Fruit for this PG is sourced from the Yakima Valley, where a constant breeze moderates temperatures to capture fresh flavors and give this wine a vibrant mouthfeel. A light squeeze of the grapes on the press and a cool fermentation is used to enhance the wine’s racy character. This medium-bodied Pinot Gris offers vibrant aromas and flavors of white peach, orange blossom, honeysuckle and ripe citrus that lead to a pleasantly crisp finish. Rating: 90, James Suckling. 12.4% ABV. $21.99/7.50

Greenwing Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 — East of Washington’s majestic Cascade Mountains, the Columbia Valley has earned renown as the source for some of North America’s most dynamic and exciting Cabernet Sauvignons. With idyllic sun-drenched summer days, cold nights and very little rainfall, it is a land of extremes, where Cabernet Sauvignon clusters ripen perfectly on the vines, yielding energetic wines. Aromas of Bing cherry, plum and red tea leaf, complemented by subtle notes of vanilla bean, clove and forest floor. Underlying mineral tones contribute complexity, with hints of brown spice and nutmeg adding layers of depth. The palate is a blend of pomegranate, plum, tobacco and cedar oil. Polished tannins and a balanced finish. Varietal Composition: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Malbec, 2% Syrah. 14.2% ABV. Rating: 90, Wine Enthusiast. $31.50/10.50 (regularly, $42/14).