A surfer at heart, Claus Preisinger has been making wine on the north shore of Lake Neusiedl in the Burgenland town of Gols, Austria, since 2002. He converted his father’s original three hectares of vineyards and winery to 19 hectares of biodynamic production in 2006, and is Respekt Biodyn certified*. Claus vinifies mostly domestic grape varieties such as Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner and St. Laurent, supplemented by Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc from both the west and east sides of Lake Neusiedl. The winery does not use any cultivated yeast, and only very slight or no dosing of sulphur dioxide. Many of the wines are aged in amphora rather than wooden barrels, which is viewed as a conscious step back — a reduction to the essential, the grape and the soil. Reduction, minimalism and a free spirit are the guiding themes of Claus Preisinger. His winemaking methods are guided by instinct rather than set formula, and he is perpetually experimenting and evolving, making wine that is markedly different in style to the classic interpretations coming out of the region. We will sample:
Preisinger Kalkundkiesel White '19 — A blend of 60% Weissburgunder, 30% Grüner Veltliner, and 10% Chardonnay; considered a Rare White Blend (wine made from uncommon or unusual grape variety blends). The name Kalkundkiesel designates the use of sites that are rich in chalk (kalk) and pebbles (kiesel). The wine spends six months in neutral oak barrels, on the lees, and is finally bottled unfined, unfiltered with no added sulphur dioxide. Notes of elderflower, fresh-cut hay, white flowers and ripe pears. A zippy twang of acid on the palate. Drink now through 2027. 11.5% ABV. $39.99/$13.50
Preisinger Rózsa Libre '20 — A blend of 80% Blaufränkisch and 20% Zweigelt, this is an ultra-crisp rosé for high summer! A mix of freshly cut green and orange melon and raspberries on the nose, the palate refreshes with bright flavors of melon, strawberries, new raspberries, tangerine zest, and lemon juice. Very light, crisp, and dry with saline minerality. Fruit is certified biodynamic and comes from 25-year-old vines planted in several different vineyards around the lake. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel; unfiltered, unfined, minimal sulphur dioxide.12% ABV. $30.99/$10
Preisinger Blaufränkisch Kalks '20 — 100% Blaufränkisch, pronounced "Blahw-FRAHN-keesh". Dark ruby red in the glass with aromas of blackberries, raspberries, blood orange, violets, lilacs, and forest soil. On the palate, juicy with pleasant minerality; light sweet spices and cloves. Delicate tannins. A light and fruity red wine. 12.5% ABV. $31.99/$10.50
See you Friday!
*respekt-BIODYN is an association that includes 26 wineries from Austria, Germany, Italy and Hungary. The association is based in Austria. respekt-BIODYN means people who have committed themselves to the goal of producing wines of the highest quality using biodynamic methods.