As we will taste, Beaujolais produces both white and red wine. Arguably, “red” Beaujolais is the better known of the two and it achieves its identity with variations on style of one grape: Gamay. Gamay was actually grown throughout all of Burgundy until 1395 when the Duke of Burgundy banished it south, making room for Pinot Noir to inhabit all of the “superior” hillsides of Burgundy proper. This was good news for Gamay as it produces a much better wine in the granitic soils of Beaujolais, compared with the limestone escarpments of the Côte d’Or.

Four styles of Beaujolais wines exist. The simplest, and one that has regrettably given the region a subpar reputation, is Beaujolais Nouveau.*** This is the Beaujolais wine that is made using carbonic maceration (a quick fermentation that results in sweet aromas) and is released on the third Thursday of November in the same year as harvest. It's meant to drink young and is flirty, fruity and fun. The rest of Beaujolais is where the serious wines are found. Aside from the wines simply labelled, Beaujolais, there are the Beaujolais-Villages wines, which must come from the hilly northern part of the region, and offer reasonable values with some gems among them. The superior sections are the cru vineyards coming from ten distinct communes: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly.

We will sample wines from two of these communes:

Lapalu Beaujolais Ce Blanc '20 — Jean-Claude Lapalu is among the most respected and revered growers in Beaujolais, a star of the Paris wine scene, and a leader in the so-called Natural Wine movement in France. He followed his parents and grandparents as a grape grower, which for him naturally led to winemaking. This white beaujolais is 100% Chardonnay, with white fruit and floral aromas and minerality on the finish. Rich, round and juicy at the same time. Dry and fruity on the palate. 12.5% ABV. $32.50/$11

Lapalu Côte de Brouilly Beaujolais ‘20 — 100% Gamay from 50+ year-old vines. A vibrant purple color with a smoky mélange of plum skin, raspberry seed, cassis, crushed herbs, and spice on the nose. The palate is racy and densely imbued with wild blueberry, Italian plum, and mulberry flavors. Bright and energetic, as opposed to a firm structure. A bit on the more rustic end of the Gamay spectrum. Only 300 cases produced. 13% ABV. $43.99/$14.50

Sunier Morgon Beaujolais '20 — Antoine Sunier has only been making wine since 2014; he got his start working under Jean-Claude Lapalu and has been influenced by his wine-making brother, Julien Sunier.. With fruit grown from 60+ year=old vines, this 100% Gamay is deep violet in color with mineral-tinged cherry, black raspberry and violet aromas that take on a spicy nuance in the glass. Densely packed yet lively dark berry, cherry preserve and spicecake flavors and a touch of cola. Offers a long, subtly tannic finish that echoes the floral and mineral notes. Herbal and earthy with discreet red-fruit aromas, reserved and structured, but has lots of character. Pronounced oolong-tea note at the long, focused and dry finish. 12% ABV. $42/$14

***Don’t this this stop you! We are planning our annual Beaujolais Nouveau tasting in November!