Portugal is a country with a strong winemaking tradition, but like its neighbor Spain, it has been undergoing something of a quiet revolution over the last twenty years. A reluctance to follow trends and plant international grapes is now paying dividends and the new breed of full-blooded, fruit-filled wines are more than able to compete on the world stage. The unique flavors that are the hallmark of Portugal's indigenous grape varieties have become its trump card.
The history of Portuguese wine has been influenced by the country’s relative isolationism in the world's wine market, with the notable exception of its relationship with England. Wine has been made in Portugal since at least 2000 BC when the Tartessians are believed to have cultivated the first vineyards. The climatic conditions in England -- a cool-weather country – made it unfavorable for viticulture. As a result, England has been a ready market for imported wines. Its proximity to France made French wines a natural source, but at times the supply was threatened by political and military conflicts between the two crowns. So new wine sources had to be found, and one such finding were the wines of Portugal.
Best known for intense, impressive, and age-worthy fortified wines, Portugal relies almost exclusively on its many indigenous grape varieties. A long and narrow but small country, Portugal claims considerable diversity in climate and wine styles, with milder weather in the north and significantly more rainfall near the coast. While Port (named after its city of Oporto on the Atlantic Coast at the end of the Douro Valley), made Portugal famous, Portugal is also an excellent source of dry red and white wines of various styles. We will sample three:
MOB LOTE 3 BRANCO WHITE BLEND 2021, DAO — Producing some of the country’s most dignified and mineral-driven red wines, Dão is positioned in north central Portugal where granite mountains surround and shelter the region from any Atlantic maritime influence. Summers are long and warm; winters see abundant rainfall. This wine is imparted with a golden color by the maturation and richness of the Encruzado and Bical grapes. Its subtle aromatics are dominated by a complex bouquet of white fruit, herbs, and minerality. Luxurious in the mouth but then very well-balanced and long on the finish due to its acid structure. 12.5% ABV. $18.99/6.50
QUINTA DE CHOCAPALHA TINTO RED BLEND 2018, LISBON — Originally acquired in the 1980s, the 110 acres of nearly abandoned vineyards discovered on the estate dated back to the 16th century; the family immediately embarked on an investment program to replant and regraft the vines with the thriving varietals of the area, both indigenous and international. In 2000, the new plantings had reached optimal maturity when Sandra Tavares, the youngest daughter made her first debut as a winemaker, passionate and eager to produce wine with only the best grapes found on the estate. This wine is deep violet in color with a powerful bouquet of ripe black fruit, spice and rose. It is elegant on the palate with soft tannins and vibrant acidity leading to a long and expressive finish. Blend: 42% Touriga Nacional, 21% Castelão, 21% Tinta Roriz, 8% Alicante Bouschet, 8% Touriga Franca. 14% ABV. $21.50/7
WINE & SOUL MANOELLA TINTO RED BLEND 2021, DOURO — Located in the heart of the Douro Valley, Portugal’s best-known wine region, Wine & Soul spans several picturesque vineyards. Parcels of 80-year-old vines are tucked into terraces carved out by dynamite a century ago. Walls built from the displaced schist border the vines, preventing erosion and enhancing the idyllic landscape. Wine & Soul has received considerable critical praise for its character-driven wines, all of which represent the exceptional terroir of the Douro region. This Tinto is a fresh and focused red with good concentration while remaining light on its feet. Beautiful purple color with fresh notes of raspberry, blackberry, and spices. On the palate, shows round and velvety tannins, good concentration, and a long finish. Delivers a fragrant overtone of Mediterranean scrub and subtle, minerally iron tang on the finish. Blend: 60% Touriga Nacional, 25% Touriga Franca, 10% Tinta Roriz, 5% Tinta Francisca. 14% ABV. $27/9
See you Friday!