Rosé is a wine with surprising nuance that encompasses impressive traditions in some of Europe’s great appellations. However, it’s not so complex that it’s intimidating to learn the basics and Rosé is the fastest-growing category in the US.
Many believe that all Rosé is a blend of white and red wine, but most bottles are the result of skin contact. Blending red wine into white is only common in Rosé Champagne. Another misconception left over from America’s White Zinfandel days is that Rosé is off-dry or even sweet. Most quality-driven European Rosés are dry, as are offerings from an increasing number of New World producers. Let’s see how this all pans out by tasting three very different wines:
Ovum PNK Salt Rosé 2023, Willamette Valley, Oregon — At Ovum, each wine is produced the same way — if the wine smells and tastes different, it has everything to do with terroir, and little to do with the winemaker. The hope is that through attention to detail and honest technique, they can produce old-fashioned wines in the modern world. Blend: 98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Ovum's "Big Salt" white blend, which is mainly Riesling. Fruit is from an organic, single vineyard in Columbia Gorge planted in 1983. An alluring bouquet of vibrant cherry jam, green fig, and salted lemon. Ripe red berries, juicy watermelon, and a hint of zesty citrus. The wine's bright acidity and light body is invigorating, while the salty finish leaves a lasting impression. The texture of this wine is refined and elegant, with a delightful balance of fruitiness and minerality. 12.5% ABV. $25.99/8.50
Mark Ryan Winery, “And Why Am I Mr. Pink” Rosé 2022, Columbia Valley, Washington — . Washington State produces some of the finest grapes in the country, and Mark Ryan Winery sources from renowned vineyards. Founder and winemaker Mark Ryan McNeilly is largely self-taught and crushed and produced his first vintages in the garages of friends and family. This Rosé is dry and fruit-forward rosé with bright strawberry and peach aromatics backed by white florals such as honeysuckle and jasmine. On the palate, ripe strawberries and juicy guava flavors layer over elderflower and orange blossom to lend a lush ripeness and lingering floral finish. Blend: 58% Sangiovese, 42% Syrah. 12.7% ABV. $17.99/6
Rosi Mosi Sparkling Rosé NV, Zweigelt, Austria — The Zweigelt grape varietal was created by Dr. Fritz Zweigelt in 1922 and is a cross between St. Laurent and Blaufrankish. It is the most planted red variety in Austria, covering 14% of the total vineyards' surface. The grapes are hand harvested, whole cluster pressing with an hour-long maceration, fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Carbon dioxide was added to the still wine once completed. Clear salmon color with strawberries and cream and red crushed fruit notes on the nose. On the palate, high tone red fruits carry forward with nice weight and balance matched by a soft but ample zing. 11.5% ABV. $19.99/7
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